以丹纳“精神气候”理论为切入点,系统解构唐宋两代女性服饰审美转型的深层机制。研究表明,自然动因上,北宋以降的“第三小冰期”气候寒化推动服饰从唐代袒露薄纱转向宋代多层次保暖结构,催生褙子、长袖、盖头等防寒形制,毛织物使用显著增加;制度动因上,宋代庶民阶层崛起、文官政治强化及理学伦理规训,通过《舆服志》等级规制与家训道德约束,建构了以“柔顺俭约”为核心的女性服饰伦理,形成对唐代胡服风尚的意识形态反拨;文化动因上,文人审美主导的“清瘦雅淡”范式取代唐代“雍容丰腴”美学,体现于褙子的颀长线条、淡彩设色及梅兰竹菊纹饰,并通过“簪花自然主义”实现伦理压抑下的审美代偿。三重动因的交互作用,最终促成中国服饰史从“开放多元”向“内敛理性”的范式转型,折射出社会结构中女性身体从“自我表达”到“伦理载体”的身份重构。

The work aims to systematically deconstruct the underlying mechanisms of aesthetic transformation in women's attire in the Tang and Song Dynasties from the perspective of Hippolyte Taine's "spiritual climate" theory. According to the research findings, in terms of natural drivers, the climatic cooling during the "Third Little Ice Age" from the Northern Song onward promotes a shift from Tang-era sheer, revealing garments to multi-layered thermal structures in the Song Dynasty, giving rise to cold-resistant forms such as beizi (a long-sleeved outer garment), elongated sleeves, and head veils, alongside significantly increasing the use of woolen textiles. With regards to institutional drivers, the rise of the commoner class, strengthened civil bureaucracy, and Neo-Confucian ethical discipline in the Song Dynasty construct a female dress ethics centered on "docility and frugality" through hierarchical regulations (Yu Fu Zhi: Treatise on Carriages and Dress) and familial moral constraints, forming an ideological countercurrent to Tang's nomadic-inspired fashion. As for cultural drivers, the literati-aesthetic paradigm of "slenderness and subtle elegance" replaces Tang's "opulent voluptuousness," manifested in beizi's elongated silhouettes, muted color palettes, and motifs of plum, orchid, bamboo, and chrysanthemum, achieving the aesthetic compensation under ethical suppression via "floral-adorned naturalism." The interplay of these three drivers ultimately catalyzes a paradigm shift in Chinese sartorial history, from "open diversity" to "restrained rationality", reflecting women's societal reconfiguration from "self-expression" to "ethical vessel."