Restoration of Straight-collared Cloaks of the Ming and Qing Dynasties

LIU Wenyu, TANG Shuo, LEI Minghao, FANG Nana, LI Yuetong, JIANG Yuqiu

Industrial & Engineering Design ›› 2025, Vol. 7 ›› Issue (6) : 76-87.

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Industrial & Engineering Design ›› 2025, Vol. 7 ›› Issue (6) : 76-87. DOI: 10.19798/j.cnki.2096-6946.2025.06.011
Design Innovation and Application

Restoration of Straight-collared Cloaks of the Ming and Qing Dynasties

  • LIU Wenyu, TANG Shuo, LEI Minghao, FANG Nana, LI Yuetong, JIANG Yuqiu*
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Abstract

Focusing on the restoration of the shape of the straight-collared cloak (commonly known as the "cloak" in the literature) in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, taking five paintings as restoration references, including the Anonymous Portrait of Dao Zhiang in the Ming Dynasty and Anonymous Portrait of a Noble Woman in the Ming Dynasty from the Anhui Museum, as well as Portrait of Li Liufang, Watching Magpies While Reclining, and Admiring Chrysanthemums with a Watch in Hand from the Palace Museum, and combing with unearthed clothing artifacts and documentary records, the work aims to systematically restore three typical costumes of the men's straight-collared cloaks in the Ming Dynasty, women's straight-collared cloaks in the Ming Dynasty, and women's straight-collared cloaks in the Qing Dynasty through pattern copying, process restoration and dyeing experiments. The research focuses include clarifying the shape evolution of the straight-collar cloak in the Qing and Qing Dynasties through image analysis and comparison with the actual object, restoring the decorative characteristics of clothing in different periods based on pattern research and process practice, verifying the historical rationality of the restoration results combined with the scene and a full set of compatibility restoration. The results show that while maintaining the core shape of "straight collar and placket", the sleeve shape, decoration technology and pattern theme of the Ming and Qing Dynasties show significant differences with the times, reflecting the inheritance and adaptation of clothing culture in the change of regime. This study provides a new idea for the methodology of traditional costume restoration.

Key words

clothing of the Ming and Qing Dynasties / straight-collared cloaks / shape restoration / pattern reference / process practices

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LIU Wenyu, TANG Shuo, LEI Minghao, FANG Nana, LI Yuetong, JIANG Yuqiu. Restoration of Straight-collared Cloaks of the Ming and Qing Dynasties[J]. Industrial & Engineering Design. 2025, 7(6): 76-87 https://doi.org/10.19798/j.cnki.2096-6946.2025.06.011

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