摘要
《国家宝藏》第四季第五期以重庆中国三峡博物馆馆藏“红绸盘金绣花蟒凤衣”为核心,重现明末女将秦良玉率军平定叛乱、守卫重庆的历史事迹。针对剧本设定的战争场景,文章围绕王朝名将的社会地位、女性身份的性别属性与明代军服的制度规范,塑造并建构秦良玉戎装形象。通过文献考证以辨析秦良玉戎装的性别特征,再结合图像资料与服饰文物梳理其戎装形制规范、材料类别、制作工艺。研究表明,秦良玉的戎装在形制上延续男性武官的制式体系,盔甲为铁制,由凤翅盔、掩膊、吊装腿裙组成,搭配红色蜀锦狮子补曳撒、黄地龟甲纹蜀锦抱腰、白色如意云纹领巾、皮制皂靴。整体造型在严格遵循史实与服制的基础上实现了艺术化表达,不仅增强戎装与角色、剧本叙事的契合度,也体现了舞台服饰设计中历史复原与文化表达的有机融合,使秦良玉戎装形象兼具历史考据与艺术再现的双重价值。
Abstract
The fifth episode of the fourth season of National Treasures centers on the "Red Silk Coiled Gold-embroidered Boa and Phoenix Robe" from the collection of the China Three Gorges Museum in Chongqing, recreating the historical exploits of female general Qin Liangyu in the late Ming Dynasty, who led troops to quell rebellions and defend Chongqing. In response to the war scenes established in the script, the work aims to shape and construct the military attire image of Qin Liangyu by centering on the social status of a renowned general in the dynasty, the gender attributes of female identity, and the institutional norms of military uniforms in the Ming Dynasty. Through textual analysis, the gender characteristics of Qin Liangyu's military attire are identified and combined with visual materials and costume artifacts, its standardized forms, material categories, and production techniques are sorted out. The study reveals that Qin Liangyu's military attire conforms to the same structural norms as that of male generals, featuring iron armor composed of a phoenix-winged helmet, shoulder guards, and hanging leg skirts, complemented by a red Sichuan brocade lion-emblem yisan robe, a yellow-ground tortoise-shell patterned Sichuan brocade waistband, a white ruyi-cloud-patterned collar scarf, and leather black boots. The overall design, while strictly adhering to historical accuracy and sartorial regulations, achieves an artistic expression that not only enhances the harmony between the attire, the character, and the narrative script, but also exemplifies the organic integration of historical reconstruction and cultural articulation in stage costume design, endowing Qin Liangyu's military image with dual values in both historical verification and artistic representation.
关键词
秦良玉 /
明末女将 /
戎装形象
Key words
Qin Liangyu /
female general in the late Ming Dynasty /
image of military attire
张晨暄, 胡若涵, 张蓓蓓.
明末秦良玉戎装形象设计研究——《红绸盘金绣花蟒凤衣·前世传奇》[J]. 工业工程设计. 2025, 7(6): 66-75 https://doi.org/10.19798/j.cnki.2096-6946.2025.06.010
ZHANG Chenxuan, HU Ruohan, ZHANG Beibei.
Military Attire Design of Qin Liangyu in the Late Ming Dynasty: The Legendary Past of the Red Silk Coiled Gold-embroidered Boa and Phoenix Robe[J]. Industrial & Engineering Design. 2025, 7(6): 66-75 https://doi.org/10.19798/j.cnki.2096-6946.2025.06.010
{{custom_sec.title}}
{{custom_sec.title}}
{{custom_sec.content}}
参考文献
[1] 中华人民共和国文化和旅游部. 关于印发《“十四五”艺术创作规划》的通知[EB/OL]. (2021-06-24)[2025-07-12]. https://zwgk.mct.gov.cn/zfxxgkml/wysy/202107/t20210713_926403.html
[2] 中国地方志集成编委会编. 中国地方志集成·重庆府县志辑33·乾隆忠州志道光忠州直隶州志同治忠州直隶州志. 重庆:巴蜀书社. 2017:414.
[3] 周斌,林建,侯安国. 中国地方志集成・重庆府县志辑:第21册[M]. 成都:巴蜀书社,2017:37.
[4] 张廷玉等撰. 明史[M].北京:中华书局. 1974.
[5] 彭福荣,谭清宣,徐军妮. 明清史料中各民族共有共享的中华文化形象——以秦良玉为例证[J]. 民族学刊,2023,14(11):9-19.
[6] 秦良玉史料研究编纂委员会. 秦良玉史料集成[M]. 成都:四川大学出版社,1987.
[7] 李国祥,杨昶.明实录类纂·军事史料卷[M].武汉:武汉出版社,1993:692.
[8] 林基中. 燕行录全集[M].首尔:韩国东国大学校出版部.2001:43.
[9] 苏泽龙. 沁河老宅院[M]. 太原:山西人民出版社,2016:90.
[10] 边大绶. 虎口余生记[M]. 北京:北京古籍出版社,2002:351.
[11] 茅元仪. 武备志[M].台北:宗青·华世出版社,1996.
[12] 郑艺鸿. 明代帝陵石刻研究[M]. 合肥:安徽文艺出版社,2020:225.
[13] 黄启臣. 十四━十七世纪中国钢铁生产史[M]. 郑州:中州古籍出版社,1989.
[14] 李诫. 营造法式・法式三十三[M]. 上海:商务印书馆,1929:5.
[15] 李建亮. 中国传统经典纺织品纹样史[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社,2020:18-19.
[16] 顾春华. 中国古代丝绸设计素材图系·装裱锦绫卷[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社,2017:43-49.
[17] 傅冬花. 中国传统装饰纹样“云纹”与“如意纹”的历史变迁以及造型特点分析[J]. 中国艺术,2016(3):123-125.
[18] 苏淼. 中国古代丝绸设计素材图系·暗花卷[M]. 杭州:浙江大学出版社,2018:110.
[19] 黄炳煜,肖均培. 江苏泰州市明代徐蕃夫妇墓清理简报[J]. 文物,1986(9):1-15.
基金
国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(25BG154)